OR/WA PCT Part 9

Wed 7/31

Campsite near Trout Lake PCT mile 2226.5 to 2251.2 = 24.7

Left camp  4:56 am, hiked pretty strong (for me) up the climb.  What a gorgeous day!! A lot of sub-alpine zone with sub-alpine fir and lodge pole pine zone a little lower.

In the Cascades on the PCT you hike toward a major peak like Mt Adams, then you hike away from the same peak.  A few days ago, I was at Timberline Lodge near Mt Hood.  Now Mt Hood is south of me and getting more distant each time I have a view.  Mt St Helens is south but still pretty close.  Mt Rainier is north of me, but pretty far away.  

All of the hikers were basking in the scenery and wildflowers--red and orange Indian Paintbrush, purple lupine, purple and white fleabane.

Coincidence

I'm coming to the Lewis River--rocky, gnarly--looking for a place to cross.  Upstream at a log jam are two southbounders who have just crossed the log jam. Coincidence?

Later in the day when I'm tired, I come to a 4-way trail crossing.  Just after taking a necessary break, a woman comes riding a red horse and leading a white.  Without my asking, she tells me where all four trails lead.  Coincidence? 

I do not believe in coincidences or luck.  There is a trail saying, "The trail will provide." which is partly correct.  To me the saying is code for "God provides."

Camp Mates

Camp was a little way off the PCT.  After I was all set up, a young woman came to camp.  Her name was "Little Skittles."  She's from Tacoma and is only the third person I've met who completed the series.  Very impressive. 

I was already in bed when a couple showed up looking to camp.  I got up and talked a few minutes.  They are from New York City.  That was a first for me.  

Thurs 8/1  2251.2 several exposed campsites elevation 7015 ft. -- 2273.8 = 22.6 miles

Lots of elevation gain today.  The Goat Rocks are incredible--sandwiched between Mt Adams and Mt Rainier.  Campsite -- looking south to Mt Adams or looking north to Mt Rainier.  Caretaker (Don) is also camping here. Don, formerly from western Washington, lives in Grapevine, Texas.  He is an ultra-runner (39-100 miles).  Nice guy, strong hiker.

I did not set up the rainfly on the tent so I could see the stars where there is no light pollution.  At some point during the night, I could not see the stars, meaning clouds had rolled in.  I had to get up and put on the rainfly in spite of the wind. I went to Caretaker's campsite and said, "We may be in for bad weather.  We should hike together tomorrow.  How does 5:30 work for you?"  He agreed.

Fri 8/2

We left camp at 5:20 am.  We had a choice - old PCT route or the higher stock route.  The old PCT has more snow and can be icy early in the day, so we took the stock route.

The first four miles from is gnarly, rocky, in places very steep.  This four mile stretch of trail is slow going with good weather.  We didn't have good weather.  I'm not joking when I say that we encountered winds of 70-80 mph.  You're walking through loose rock and fighting the wind. The hiking was intense (you had to focus on each step, plus you had to fight against the wind).  Several times the trail was steep with small loose pebbles.  We both slipped several times.

After topping out at the last climb in this section, I called Becky and asked if she would come and get me.  I needed a shower and I needed laundry done in the worst way.  And I needed to see Becky and Abby, our dog.

The Goat Rocks is three for three, I am zero for three.   I've been in the Goat Rocks three times now--crummy weather every time.  After dropping some elevation, we started getting a light drizzle.  Just after we stopped to put on rain jackets, the rain picked up.

I made it to White Pass around 3:00 pm, Becky showed up forty minutes later.  We drove to Naches where I got a burger, fries, and milkshake.  We were home around 7:30 pm.  Shower--long shower--to take care of layers of dirt on legs and feet and layers of stink.

Sat 8/3

A zero day for me. Becky had hired a guy named Brian to cut the lower limbs on our pine trees.  I took five pick-up loads to the dump and raked up needles, limbs, and pine cones.  I am convinced that I was supposed to be home helping with this project.

I also made arrangements with Harold to take me to White Pass on Sunday.  Harold and I have hiked many, many miles together, but not recently.  I looked forward to reconnecting with Harold.
The plan was to hike from White Pass to Snoqualmie Pass and then on to Stevens Pass before August 15th (Becky's and my wedding anniversary).

Video - don't miss

OR/WA PCT Part 8

Sat 7/27  Last night and this morning early, I had every intention of ending my hike at Cascade Locks.  I felt awful.  My body was beat up.  On my way to take a photo of entering Washington, I thought, "I don't feel too bad. Let's get back on trail."

I hiked 19 miles from Bridge of the Gods (PCT mile 2144.4) to Rock Creek (PCT mile 2163.6)  I camped at Rock Creek with Northbounders, Southbounders, people who flipped past the Sierras.  I have no clue how many are camped here, but I'll guess a dozen anyway.  I had a sweet campsite away from everyone (both he and the other campers were pleased by this).

After feeling bad enough to end the trip, I am thrilled to still be in the game and moving up the trail.  Today hills, peaks above some elevation were in a cloud, mist or rain soaked the vegetation and made for cool but sloppy conditions.

Sun 7/28

The past three years with some 2,500 miles I have almost always been the first on the trail.  Not today.  Two hikers, Metric Ton, and someone else, came by my tent at 4:15 am.  Lazy me didn't hit the trail until 4:56 am.

Today's hiking started with a big climb.  My fresh legs did ok.  Then there was a fairly flat five mile section to Panther Creek. Folks at campground really pushed for me going to the campground to get to the water-spigots.  To get water, you have to pump like the dickens, water came out in a seemingly random pattern.  It would have been great with a partner--one to hold the bottle and the other to pump.  No way I could pump AND hold the bottle.  Highly inefficient as only 10% or less of the water ended in the bottle.

After getting water I started the second big climb.  Around 3:00 pm, I arrived as a road crossing, and then a water cache.  I wish I had known about the cache as I would have carried less water up the hill.  A couple -- Happy Bear and Lupine -- are staying here too.  Perhaps others as well.  My campsite is tucked away from the cache.  At an earlier cache I got an apple.  The apple was wonderful, bruises and all.

Started at Rock Creek PCT mile 2163.6, ended 2184.6 = 21 miles

Mon 7/29

Left camp at 4:55 am.  First 4.4 miles was finishing the climb I started yesterday afternoon.  After the climb the hiking was pretty easy.  At mile 2199 I came to a sign for Indian Racetrack.  I did not go because years ago, Harold and I did this section, and we went to the racetrack.  Just a grassy meadow.  No Grandstand, no loudspeaker, no cheering fans.  Very quiet and unassuming.  In its prime I'm sure the Indian Racetrack was grand and exciting.

Sometimes the Heart Wins

On a hike like this my head and my body are in lock-step--more miles, just one more mile.  Today my heart won.  Approaching Bear Lake was a young couple debating whether or not to camp at Bear Lake.  Time was 2:48 pm--plenty of time to hike 5 or 10 more miles.  But my heart said, "We've been pushing.  Bear Lake is gorgeous.  It would be a shame to push on." I'm camping at Bear Lake.  I just won't get to Trout Lake as early tomorrow.

Southbounders

Southbounders start at the Canadian Border and hike south.  In most years there are only a few hearty southbounders.  NOT this year.  Because snowpack in Sierras and low snowpack in Northern Washington convinced a lot of hikers to go SOBO.

Southbounders are shooting for 2650 miles.  I'm only trying to do 1000 miles.  Funny thing--today I crossed 500 trail miles from California border, the southbounders still in Washington are at 400-450 miles.  My trip will be much shorter, but I've done more miles. Seems weird.

Started PCT mile 2184.6 -- ended Bear Lake 2205.7 + 21 miles.

What is Kevin eating? 

Long distance hikes are a calorie-deficit situation.  You are burning 5,000 to 8,000 calories.  You can't carry enough Trail Food, so you supplement with Town Food when you can.

What Kevin ate at Cascade Locks:

• At the Ale House--salad, jalapeno hamburger, fries, Lager beer and ice water
• At Gourmet Hot Dog and Ice Cream Shop--Reuben dog with sauerkraut, Reuben meat and cheese.  Also huckleberry ice cream in a waffle cone. 
• Saturday morning = Breakfast burrito
• At Trout Lake - I understand hikers get very slow service.  My resupply is at Trout Lake Grocery, so I'll get food there. 

Breakfast

• My body knows it gets fed at 6:30 am

• 6:30 Sunrise Energy Bar from Costco--oats and seeds
• 7:30 Nuts
• 8:30 Main Breakfast--oats, multigrain muesli or Grape Nuts with raisins, craisins and milk powder (a mix of whole and non-fat mixed)  Main breakfast goes in a freezer bag.  Add water, stir, and eat

Dinners in a freezer bag

• Mexican--meat dish dehydrated (carne adovado, green chile, red chile) and Spanish rice (I cooked and dehydrated) and dehydrated refried beans (Pinto, of course).  Also add a packet of olive oil
• Non Mexican--have done roast beef, spaghetti sauce and hamburger, pulled pork, Texas BBQ Brisket, alfredo with ground turkey.  To non-Mexican meals, add dehydrated  veggies (from Karen's Naturals), pasta (Whole wheat macaroni)

Pour hot water into freezer bag, stir, wait 15-20 minutes. Add Fritos to Mexican dinners; eat non-Mexican with Wheat Thins.

Pre-Dinners/Lunch

Peanut Butter with Wheat Thins or Wheat Thins with dry Italian Salami and Gouda cheese (encased in wax)

Between Breakfast and Dinner

Variety of granola/energy bars
Nature Valley--Oat n Honey, Protein Bars
Pure Protein bars
Clif bars
Kirkland nut bars
Kind Dark Chocolate and Cherry
Snickers
Pro Bars (1 per section)

Lunch stop: Wheat Thins with peanut butter or salami and cheese

Tues 7/30

Left Bear Lake 4:57 am, hiking in a cloud.  Good hiking, the miles rolled by pretty fast.  There was a 1,000 -  2,000 foot climb that went ok.  I was at Forest Road by 1:15 pm or so

More to come soon.

WA/OR PCT Part 7

Mon 7-22 Day 17

Left miserable, dirty camp about 5:15 am.  Big climb (about 3000 feet).  Russell Creek crossing was a little dicey.  No way to cross without getting my feet wet.  Oregon PCT may be relatively flat, but dog-gonit, most of the day was slow going with gnarly rocks and tree roots.  And in places, big steps to take.  Also quite a bit of snow.  Jefferson Park is very scenic.  At 3:30 pm I finally hit the 20 mile mark. At Ollalie Lake, a Trail Angel was offering to cook a hamburger.  I really wanted the hamburger but passed to see if I could pull 25 miles.  I did, about 5:45 pm

I did the math.  If I didn't pick up the pace, I would not make Cascade Locks in time on Friday to get my resupply boxes, which also includes new shoes.  The lava rock has done a number to the shoes I've been wearing. 

I have encountered the same thing three times now.  I'm hiking along when suddenly, I am in the middle of a swarm of butterflies.  They are orange, black, and white.

I've run into a young woman from Kentucky.  She lives in Utah now and really loves the west.  Her trail name is Scrappy.  I bet you can guess how she got her name.

7/22: PCT mile 2029.5 - Lemiti Creek PCT mile 2054.6 =25 miles  Tomorrow I'll pass the 400 mile mark. 

Tues 7/23 Day 18 Lemiti Creek  PCT mile 2054.6 to PCT mile 2082.5 = 28 miles.

A lot of today was easier hiking.  Not gnarly, not very steep most of the time.  Also today, no unsigned intersections.

I have grown weary of pushing my body to hike more miles than I am in shape for.  I am 14-15 miles from my next resupply (Timberline Lodge) and 62 miles from Cascade Locks, which I must arrive by 4:00 pm Friday.  Two days in a row I have missed out on "Trail Magic" so I could push the miles.

Realistically I am in shape for 20-22 miles a day.  Nine of the last ten days I've done 25-28 miles.  I need to push for the next two days so Friday is easy and getting to Cascade Locks by 4:00 pm is a snap. 

My general goal of 1000 miles in 50 days is a no-brainer.  That would have put me home by August 25.  But when I look at getting home before Garrett comes (he was supposed to have come to Washington to work for a month around August 18) or even in time for our anniversary (August 15)--the miles have to be around 25 daily and no wiggle room.  In Cascade Locks, I'll call Becky and give her an alternative plan that looks promising, but has more logistics

My "Hiker Hunger" is kicking in.  I eat a good supper between 6:00 and 7:00 pm, but by 8:00 to 10:00 pm I am digging into my food sack for Fritos or a granola bar.  Here's tonight's example:

1. Wheat Thins with peanut butter
2. Roast Beef dinner 
3. I polished off all the Fritos and Wheat Thins
4. I just ate a Snickers bar, Kirkland Nut Bar, and a Nature Valley Oat and Honey bar

Wed. 7/24 PCT mile 2082.5 to Trail side stream PCT mile 2106.7 = 24 miles

Hiking was not bad early.  Had a first view of Mt Hood.  Then as I got closer to Mt Hood, the hiking was harder -- uphill in loose sand. A hiker going south said "Timberline Lodge is just around the bend."  She was correct, but way wrong at the same time. When I saw the Lodge, it was on the other side of a big canyon and it was another mile hiking on the contour of the hill. 

I ate at the lodge--very good, but quite expensive.  For that much money, Becky and I both get a meal.  

When I resumed hiking (12:30), it was okay, BUT there are MANY trails, mostly unsigned.  Difficult to stay on the PCT.  Other PCT hikers had the same issues, but they are using Guthook's app. 

Thurs. 7/25 PCT mile 2106.7 - Indian Spring Campground PCT mile 2125.1 =18.8 miles. 

Hiking went well in the morning and awful in the afternoon.  The past three years, I've done 2500 miles.  Today is the ONLY time after a break that I went the wrong direction.  Hiking along a ridge with almost unvaried tree canopy and underbrush.  I came onto "Squeaky" and found I was going south, not north.  So not as many miles today as I wanted, but I did get in a few "Bonus Miles." All you can do is grin and bear it. 

Six hikers are here--2 from England going south, 2 from Germany going north, Squeaky and me also going north.  

It was nice having people to talk to this evening.  But I should be another three miles up the trail. 

Fri 7/26

Left camp before 5:00 am.  My goal is to get to Cascade Locks before 5:00 pm to get my resupply box.  At Wahtum Lake, an unsigned junction, a lower trail is going around the lake and an upper trail.  Generally, the lower trail is just for access.  Not this time -- the lower trail was the PCT

Then there was a steep, gnarly down-hill section.  I'll take uphill over steep downhill any times.  My knees were screaming at me.  Last few miles were not bad.  Arrived at Cascade Locks at 1:00 pm

Maybe it's the let down after finally arriving but I felt awful.  Town food, shower, resupply boxes, laundry were good but I still felt awful.  I had full intentions of ending my hike at Cascade Locks.  

Sat 7/27  Walking to Bridge of the Gods to take photos of "Entering Washington" sign to show I had officially completed Oregon.  Leaving motel with a considerable limp.  Before reaching the bridge, I said, "Hey, I feel ok!"

I am moving on to Washington.  Plan is to take it one section at a time and to be a little more kind and gentle on Kevin.  

See you up the trail, amigos!