Seiad Valley to Etna

7/24 Mon

Before taking off:

• another shower
• lunch at cafe
• picked up re-supply boxes (yep, we had so much food we had to divide it up into two boxes)
• Shipped four days of food to Etna

Left Seiad Valley 1:45 pm and it was HOT (>100*)

• 1 mile walk on Highway 96 and 5 mile road walk to Grider Campground. 
• Hiked another 4 miles.  Camped near wooden bridge at Grider Creek 
• PCT mile 1642.9 started Seiad Valley to mile 1653.4 = 10.5 miles

Tues 7/25   Two Thunderstorms in the same day

Storm #1 

• 4:00 am--I could see stars and also lightning flashes
• Left camp 5:13 am
• 6:00 am lots of cracking and popping of thunder
• 6:20 am make sure pack cover and rain gear are handy
• 6:35 am raining--put on rain gear and pack cover 
• Thunderstorm moving away and then right on top of me
• Raining some, then stopping
• By 8:30 rain gear off
• By 11:00 am no clouds and getting warm
  
  
  
  
  

Storm #2

• 5:00 pm talking with Viking.  He wants to know weather report
• 5:15 Rain, hail, hunkered under fir tree.  Hail as large as 1.5" diameter.  Ground is white with hail.  Raining hard again
• 5:45 Rain stopped.  Hiking on toward cabin with campsite
• 6:30 Raining hard, some hail.  I am wet.  I see green tent then yellow rainfly, maybe I can join them out of the rain.  Turns out to be a trail crew camp.  Yes, I can stay
• They feed me hamburger--2 meat patties--hummus, veggies, Gatorade, hot tea
• At trail camp, met a young woman in pink coat.  She asked camp cook if I could eat. 
• Turns out gal in pink coat daughter of Mike Borman
• Mike Borman, now retired, former Range Extension Specialist for Oregon State University
• Mike and I are both member of the Pacific Northwest Section of the Society for Range Management.  I know Mike quite well.  Great guy
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Mike's daughter's name is Sarah, super young woman
• Sarah and I have a good laugh.  What are the odds of running into a connection with someone you know at a fire camp in the Marble Mountain Wilderness...Small World

Plants I know

• I carry no plant books--too heavy
• I spend no time doing plant identification--I gotta put in my miles
• Marble Mountain Wilderness
• Forest and subalpine
• some sites--very shallow--no trees--a shrub flower rangeland plant community
• Plants I've seen the last two days while walking
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Fir and Pine trees--California species
• Some bristlecone pine (I think)
• shrubs: ceanothus, manzanita, rose, spiria
• flowers:  Indian paintbrush fleabane--purple and yellow, lupine, collomia, buckwheat/Eriogonam
• Grass: Idaho fescue
• some poa/bluegrass
• some wheatgrass

Started 1642.9  Ended 1621.2 = 21.7 miles

• Finding the fire camp--I was cold and miserable
• Got out of the rain, Got fed, warmed up with hot tea and a warming fire
• Water at my camp. I was warm, dry, and toasty. 
• The trail provides.  God is looking out for this old hiker
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Before Seiad Valley I got off trail to let three people on horses get by.  Then on Monday, just before campsite, I saw horses and a mule, then two people working on the trail. Bill and Laura from Seiad Valley.  Bill has been a trail contractor for the US Forest Service for 46 years, nice folks 

Yesterday I saw several hikers

• Group of four--two guys, two gals, all completed the Sierras, but I did not get their names
• Saw two Brads--older from England--I saw him in the desert.  Brad #2 (trail name Lazarus--from Bible).  Is from England, he had skipped from Mojave to Belden

Wed 7/26  Started 1621.2   Ended 1600.9    21.3 miles

• Considering how my day went, I'm quite pleased with 21 miles
• May 30--hike from Deep Creek Hot Springs to Hwy 173, I was short of breath and dizzy on any uphills.  May 31--when I was released from hospital in Hesperia, CA, I was told, "drink more, eat more."
• Not exactly definitive
• Today, same symptoms happened--three things at play here
• level of hydration
• level of electrolytes
• level of food/fuel
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• First thing I did was to drink, added electrolyte drops, Skratch powder (think Gatorade with less sugar), and powdered milk
• Drinking electrolytes had NO effect whatsoever.  Symptoms continued.
• Throughout the day, I ate on a regular basis.  Dizzyness stopped.  As the day continued, short of breath was less.  I never hiked with power like I normally do.  
• Some hikers I ran into today:


• Left (a Gal) and Right (a Guy)
• Second hiker named Strider
• LaneToad--I know her from the desert.  Was suffering from knee and ankle problems.  She went home then skipped from Mojave to Mt Shasta
• a couple--Pocahontas and Captain Cowboy
• Lost and Found (a guy) and Jitterbug (a gal)
• In the movie "True Grit," it was said that John Wayne's character had a lot of grit.  Today tool a lot of "grit" to make 20 miles--short of breath, dizzy, left knee and ankle sore.  Getting only 10-15 miles done was not an option.  Not enough food to make two full days. 
• Brent (met him in Seiad Valley)--has a daily goal of 33 miles.  He tries to complete 10 miles by 8:00 am and 21 miles by noon.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• I don't care what anyone says, 20 miles is a BIG day.  Think east side of Moses Lake to Ephrata, but with 3-4 hills thrown in. 
• Only 4 miles to Etna Summit to hitch a ride to town
• Shredded beef dinner (Mexican food) with refried beans and Spanish rice
• The meat and rice I cooked and dehydrated.  Beans I bought.  
• This meal will beat the heck out of most Mexican restaurants--Not bragging, it's a fact.  It would take a restaurant from New Mexico to compare. 
• The meat is just on the verge of being too hot. 
• I am tired, sore, and stiff after sitting a while--left knee is achy now and likely will throb when I hit the sack. 
• Marble Mountain Wilderness is pretty darn cool--very scenic.  I wish I felt better today to enjoy it even more
• Four hikers joined me at camp
• Dan, Anna--from Montana--just got on the trail at Etna
• She-shu--from Israel
• Can't remember 4th hiker's name 

Thurs 7/27

• 4 mile hike to Etna Summit. Arrive 7:30
• Ride to Etna 8:00 am from a gal named Lion Heart
• Shower, Laundry
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Breakfast at Bob's Ranchhouse--chicken fried steak, 3 eggs, country potatoes, ice water, ice tea, chocolate/peanut butter pie
• Resupply box is here! The one box that was late and cost me a zero day (Seiad Valley) was my mistake all the way. 

Etna-Dunsmuir

Thurs 7/27

• 1:20 pm started trying to hitch a ride to Etna Summit
• Guy named Steve gave me a ride.  He had a guitar and banjo in his car, so we talked bluegrass music
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The trail has a way of providing.  By getting back on trail the same day I ran into a group I had heard about and really wanted to see.  
• First came the black border collie (I may be wrong about the breed)
• Next came Cowboy walking in front of saddle horse and pack horse  His name is Trent and he has come from Mexico.  The PCT has mainly hikers, but people on horses have as much right to be on the trail.  Trent said taking horses is like taking an adolescent--you must take care of their needs.  He said horseback travel like this takes knowledge and skill set that is being lost.  Trent packs a pistol and wears chaps.  He certainly looks like the real deal to me.  Nice guy.  We exchanged cards, took pictures of each other.  I would like to spend a couple of days with Trent and his animals.  I have a lot of questions for Trent. Trent is also doing a fundraiser to help a friend with Ataxia .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Today's hike: 1701-1697, then town.  Then 1697-1591.5 Payne Lake.  10 miles plus stop in town. 
• Around noon today I knew I was being pulled in two different directions
• spend the night at Hiker Hut.  My left knee could have used the rest and I was VERY tempted. 
• get back on the trail. 
• Glad I am back on the trail.  Both knees ache, but I got to talk with Trent.  Then at Payne Lake, I saw Chris with two pack donkeys.  Chris packed in gear and food for a family. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Fri 7/28  1591.5 to 1566.27 = 25 miles

• I'm pooped, tired.  Left knee swollen, left ankle sore
• A few hikers I saw:
• Mega Man
• DQ
• Peaks and Rocky (newlyweds) 
• Tani and Scott
• Mt Shasta
  
  
  
  
• Trinity Alps Wilderness--scenic
• A gal whose name I can't remember, said, "We're so gifted, with a little work and we get all these great views."  Every day on the trail is a gift
• At the last spring, I got water without treating it.  At camp, I just started drinking.  I hope I don't get sick.  

Sat 7/29

•  I am sad to report that the body of a young Japanese woman was found.  Very likely I met her in Lone Pine the day before I caught the bus for home.  
• Last few days AND nights have been hot.  I'd like the nights to be cooler so I can sleep better. 
• Today's hike: started PCT mile 1566 ended PCT mile 1541=25 miles
• Camping on Cemant Ridge is the only spot without rock (gravels to boulders)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Some of the hikers I met today
• David--a section hiker
• Hawkeye
• Easy
• The Ambassador (from Sweden) and Surf-n-Turf
• Skittles--can't remember his wife's name--both thru-hikers--AND Skittles' mother
• Janine--a section hiker
• Freckles (from Australia) and Pandora (from New Zealand)
• Sancho and Catalyst
• Thomas from France
• Day before getting to Seiad Valley, I did 27 miles.  The next day I pushed for four hours just to get to Seiad Valley Cafe in time (it closes at 2:00 pm)
• Since then, left knee is terribly swollen by the end of the day. 
• Left foot and ankle are also sore
• Here's is someone's short version of a day hiking the PCT
• I hike, I eat, I sleep.  Ditto for yesterday and tomorrow. 
• End of the day after I sit, rigor mortis sets in.  Very stiff knees throb.
• I sleep with my knees on top of my pack.  Helps with overnight recovery
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Sun 7/30 Today's hike:  Started 1541  Ended 1518.6 = 23 miles

• Fairly easy hiking today
• Cleaned up in Deadfall Lake.  Wish I could dip again, but this is a day camp. 
• Hikers I met today: 
• Pauline (girl) and Vivian (guy) both from France
• Lunch and Bubba
• Hobbles
• Do So 
• Snickers
• Dutch
• Chun Kwy (fro Korea)
• Mark from Tacoma, WA.  Made it through Sierras early May, before snow melt with a group of five.  He is still physically, mentally, and emotionally spent from the experience. Navigation was a constant issue, uneasy about about having enough fuel to melt snow.  He's not having fun. I tried to encourage him.  I hope he hangs in there. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Came on a running club around mile 1523 on an unpaved road.  I followed them 0.7 mile to a paved road.  They gave me three liters of water, orange slices, watermelon, and homemade bars--whole wheat flour, nuts, chocolate--very good. 

Ashland-Seiad Valley

Wed 7/19  Becky's friend wasn't able to go with us to Ashland.  Things happen and this is understandable.  So I am on a bus on headed to Seattle.  I change buses in Seattle, then on to Portland and finally Medford. In Medford,  I will catch the local bus to Ashland.

• Just being with Becky and Abby was good, very good. In retrospect about my decision to come off trail because of stream crossings in the Sierras
• From a "Be-Safe" perspective, the decision was good
• From a "Meet-the-Obstacle/Challenges-Head-On," I had a text from a couple of hiker friends.  They made it through every stream and mountain pass challenge.  I could have had a V-8!  Instead, I was a wimp. 
• From a complete a thru-hike perspective, coming off trail was a disaster. The last day I made forward progress was June 28.  I'm getting back on trail July 20.  Three weeks off trail!  You cannot make up twenty-one days.  This killed pretty much any chance of completing the entire PCT this year. 
  
  
  
  

Thur 7/20 Very little sleep last night. in Portland a woman in a wheelchair was added.  Some seats behind me were collapsed making room for her.  I shared a seat with a boy who had been displaced.  Cat napped at best.  Need sleep. 

• Had a shuttle from Mountain Adventure, a mountain bike shop
• Ate a late breakfast at Callahans with Double J and Beet Root from Australia.  
• Started hiking at noon from PCT mile 1716 and camped 1701--at junction of 5 roads. 15 miles. 
• Ran into a lot of NOBO hikers
• Boxy and Dora
• Commando and Shade
• Hansel and Gretel (like the fairy tale) from Switzerland
• Coco from Brazil
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• One hiker--Wait-Soon-Safe (probably not his exact trail name)--completed all of the Sierras.  In three days of hiking he is the only one I've met who did the Sierras. 
• Other hikers I met: 
• Marco Polo from El Salvador and Tink
• McSkittles and Baywatch
• Laura from Alaska--says she has high respect for snow snow and rivers at high flow
• Roland from Germany--going SOBO.  Flipped to Cascade Locks and came through Oregon when it still had lots of snow, especially near Mt Hood
• Double D
• Cupid
• Gourmet and Spatula
  
  
  
  
• A lot of hikers quit the Sierras because they were not having fun
• When the heatwave started, conditions went from okay to bad in a hurry. 
• Snow on mountain passes--when snow is firm, hiking is relatively easy
• when snow is like soup--very hard to hike
• Stream crossings--with snow bridges--very early
• at high flow with no snow bridge--can be hard or dangerous
• Coming through two days earlier or later can mean drastically different conditions
• Yes, the hiking, and the country I am hiking through can be special, but I'm having more more fun talking with the other hikers.  Can't stop to talk to everyone, though, because you still gotta hike and do the allotted miles. 

Fri 7/21  Started at PCT mile 1701.  Camped at Bear Dog spring at PCT mile 1673.1 for approximately twenty-seven miles. I kept walking after I hiked beyond the map in my shorts pocket.  When I stopped and grabbed the next map, I had to go another six miles to get to the next water.  My plan to hike twenty-three miles turned into twenty-seven miles because I did not stop to grab the next mile. 

Sat 7/22 Started from Bear Dog Spring (PCT 1673) and ended at CT 1653 at Seiad Valley.  At 10:00 am a NOBO hiker informed me that the cafe closed at 2:00 pm.  A burger and shake sounded good, to I hiked at a higher gear to push the pace.  This section of trail was a lot of downhill, but there was also some uphill sections with loose rock, shrubs grown over the trail.  Last couple of miles there was  lot of poison oak (Becky here--as I long as I don't have to wash his hiking clothes after he's been in the poison oak, it's all good).  Watching my pace and the miles to go, I could tell that it was going to be close--would I make it in time for a burger, or get there just after the cafe closed.  So, I bypassed the last two springs and really pushed myself.  The store and cafe are 0.8 mile up Hwy 96.  The temperature hit 100*.  It was 2:15 when I walked into the cafe. I must have looked pretty rough, because they said they would feed me--bacon cheeseburger, fries, and strawberry shake, and LOTS of ice water.  When I left, the boss said I looked better. 

• From Ashland to Seiad Valley: 63 miles in 50 hours.  Not half bad for an old duffer.  But I am pretty beat up.  
• Left knee swollen and stiff.  After sitting awhile, my body was stiff and sore. 
• Lots of hikers in the shade, waiting for evening to take off again.  I was not much company, I was a hurting unit.  
• Checked in at the RV park and had a shower. 
• My resupply boxes made it to Riverside, California, but not to the store at Seiad Valley.  So tomorrow will be a zero day.  A year ago, waiting for a resupply box happened frequently to a hiker named Salty.  Looks like I pulled a Salty.  Doing the math, I either take a zero here or I would have had to zero in Dunsmuir
  
  
  
  

Sun 7/23 Other hikers left the RV park early. 

• Supposed to be 110* today and 100* tomorrow. 
• I ate breakfast with Roland from Germany.  He has a violin strapped to his pack. 
• Left knee is better, but my left ankle is sore.  Go figure. 
• Resupply box will not come in until tomorrow around noon or 12:30.  Bummer
• I'll be doing a six mile road walk in the heat and in the sun.  The six mile road walk is to cross the bridge across the Klamath River.  Strategy: Camel-up before leaving.  Once I hit trail there will be more shade and more water.  I'll need to check maps and water report to see how much water to carry. 
• My pack will be a heavy beast as I'll leave with seven days of food. 
• Section of trail from Ashland to Seiad Valley was dusty, dirty
  
  
  
  
• Yesterday my feet and lower legs were filthy
• I just spent a long time rinsing  and re-rinsing  my two pairs of socks I wore from Ashland.  Before doing laundry, I will rinse the socks again
• I am convinced I have rinsed out ore dirt than the amount of fabric in the socks.  And the rinse water is still brown. 
• Just talked with Brent who is going NOBO.  He did all the Sierras: June 1-24
• Lots of snow.  The section before Sonora Pass, all of the streams had high flow.  He said that's where he went swimming across. I'm impressed.  Brent said he misses the challenge of the Sierras.  Northern California has not been inspiring to Brent, but he says he has not suffered from the "blues" either. 
• Seiad Valley is small (approximate population of 100).  It has a store, cafe, and post office, but that's about it.  Elevation about 1500 feet--comparable to Ephrata.
• Young Swedish man--Strider--hiked all but 50 miles of the Sierras as the same time as Brent.  They even hiked with the same people at times.  Strider road walked to maintain continuous steps.  He said it was the worst two days of his life. 
• At Strider's suggestion, we grilled burgers here at the RV park.
  
  
  
  

Mon 7/24

• My resupply box should be here by 12:30.  It is supposed to be 100* today.  My hike south starts with a six mile road walk in the sun.  Not sure if I'll head out right away or wait till evening. I want to get back on the trail but dread a hot road walk.  And my pack will be heavy as I'll be carrying seven days of food.  Plan is to skip Etna and go on to Dunsmuir.  Maybe not the smartest decision, given the temperature.  It looked pretty doable in Ephrata. 
• I will check at post office and see if a package from Seiad Valley will be in Etna by Thursday.  If so, I may send four days of food to Etna and leave Seiad Vally with only three days of food.  That would lighten my pack by 8 lbs, which would be nice, considering it is supposed to be 105* here today and I have a heck of a climb ahead, after the six mile road walk. Lighter pack and an extra town, or a heavier pack and Etna is skipped--that's the decision I need to make when the post office opens at noon. 
• Section hiker named Ethan is trying the "Pancake Challenge"
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Female hiker named Dig had a deer being a nuisance at camp a couple of nights ago.  She had hung her food and had a tin cup with a couple of rocks in the cups to let her know when an animal was after her food.  Dig heard the tin cup rattle and got up.  Her headlamp shone on the deer.  Now she's angry with the deer and grabbed a rock.  As she said, "I was dialed in on the deer" and nailed it in the side with the rock.  Deer sprinted away.  In her demonstration it was obvious that she played softball.  Her trail name should be changed to "Cannon" because she has a cannon of an arm.